You won't find much information about Rawai or its close neighbour Nai Harn in the guidebooks or on the internet. That's because it's one of Phuket's little hideaways. With only a handful of small resort hotels, including Le Meridien Yacht Club and the Evason Phuket Resort and Spa , it's not really on the commercial tourist trail. But don't get the impression it's isolated from the rest of the island, it isn't, but unlike many of the other beaches on the island it still retains a local Thai flavour. No high rise, no McDonalds, no Starbucks.

While Phuket's more famous beaches are frantically being developed, Rawai and Nai Harn have simply continued in their own way. Although speedboats are now moored alongside local fishing boats and there are more European restaurants, Rawai remains decidedly rural. Locals still tend their rubber and coconut plantations and continue to sell freshly caught fish from tables at the side of the road. Foreign visitors, drawn by the easy charm and quick access to the beach, have been coming here for years. Many came for extended holidays which got longer and longer until Rawai became their second home. Let's face it, home is often where your friends are and Rawai is an excellent place to meet them. The chances are, friendships will be struck over a good meal, a coffee or a local beer with a view of the sea and the islands in the distance.

Sitting in one of the best spots on the island, Nikitas's bar, the view is exactly that. Sheltered from the westerly winds, it never gets really rough on this side of the island. The tide ebbs and flows accompanied by subtle changes in light tones from season to season. Sit by the sea wall and admire the view around the beach - one of the first tourist attractions on Phuket - it remains a local Thai favourite - and one of the least commercialised. On the water's edge traditional "longtail" fishing boats still bob up and down with the tide, bringing in the day's catch, as well as a few tourists out on day tours or fishing trips to the offshore islands. Despite the appearance of a few speedboats alongside, the flavour is still definitely low key.

At weekends, affluent Bangkok Thais come down to eat at the local restaurants which line Rawai beach, shaded by the ancient Casuarinas. Even if you don't eat seafood (and it is superb) Rawai beachfront is a great place to eat an unpretentious but excellent meal. On the other side of the road, relative newcomers Maggie and Mario's Pizzeria has become a regular Friday night haunt. One of the first foreign restaurants on the seafront, it's the sort of place where you'll be given friendly service, a taste of Maggie's exquisite home made ravioli stuffed with spinach, and often a free Limonchino. A local's hangout for both Thais and non-Thais, tables are often pulled together as new introductions are made and friends acquired over a glass or two of remarkably good red wine.

In Thailand, food plays an essential part in the fabric of everyday life. Meetings adjourn, decisions are postponed, and intense conversations revolve around the subject, so it's hard to find a bad restaurant. At the end of the beach, Baan Had Rawai, built in the no-nonsense basic outdoor restaurant style is probably one of the best on the island for its authentic Thai food. While classic Thai dishes like Green curry (Geng Keowan) and the more famous Tom Yam Gung (Shrimp soup) have been diluted elsewhere by the tourist palate, at this restaurant you'll get the genuine article.

While the beach provides the seafood, the views and local flavour, at Mimmi's, it's the comfy chairs, chaise longue and stylish décor that draws the both locals and visitors from further afield. Located on the junction that links Rawai with Kata and Nai Harn, what it lacks in location, it makes up in style, ambiance and friendly service. Prin, the restaurant's owner/maitre d' - always fashionably turned out - comes from Bangkok, speaks 5 languages and will help you choose from the extensive Thai/Swiss/Tibetan menu. Just along the road, Le Cabane, run by "Big Buddha" (a reference to his size and beaming smile) offers great Provencal food, huge portions and natural surroundings. Close to Mimmi's, the Bakery, run by Bruno, a genial Swiss German with Swiss flair for great pastries has become the daytime meeting place for local expats. Great coffee, newspapers and a really useful notice board, keeps everyone up to date on local bargains, boats for sale, essential services and even the odd charity ball.

Bruno's Bakery is also the place you might find out about painting or Yoga, Reiki healing or how to speak Thai. Rawai like neighbouring Nai Harn, has attracted artists and those with a creative impulse in search of a simple but comfortable lifestyle. The Atsumi Centre, surrounded by lines of shady rubber trees and forest, offers early morning Yoga and meditation among the other more esoteric activities, while in Chalong, five minutes drive south, The Movement Centre offers NIA - an unusual form of dance exercise from the US, Power Yoga and Jazz.

For a different type of body therapy, Rawai's 2 saunas run by 2 Thai ladies in fierce competition after a business difference, offer almost identical saunas using traditional Thai herbs, and Thai massage. Forget the air-conditioning and scented oils. The bamboo framed massage areas, kept cool by local breezes and a table fan, have some of the best Thai massage ladies in the business. Outdoor, communal, therapeutic and, a great source of local gossip.

If you want to venture a little outside of Rawai, The Green Man, Phuket's only genuine British pub, has a distinct southern counties feel about it. A 10 minute drive from Rawai, it provides a genuine Brit pub atmosphere and a great place to meet people attracted by quiz nights, wine tastings, cheese samplings, murder mystery "who dunnits?" British curry nights (excluding the flock wallpaper, but with lashings of Chicken Tikka Masala) and sporting events on the big "Screen on the green" - outside on the lawn. They also have children's special Sundays and fun events.

While Rawai and Nai Harn, don't cater specifically for kids - there's no park with a playground, or kid's theme entertainments, there is that huge and inexpensive playground - the beach. For tiny tots it's perfect - often knee deep and like a warm bath. At low tide it makes a great place for beachcombing and you'll see the Sea Gypsies, a local ethnic community collecting shells and sea creatures. Over at Nai Harn beach close by - the beach offers great surfing in low season, returning to crystal calm in the high season.

Phuket offers a number of options for schooling. Located close to the main road leading to Rawai, is the Phuket Montessori School. Catering to the 3-16 year old age group it offers bi-lingual education (English/Thai) and has a lovely location next to the beach. For parents preferring a more formal education, the British International School offers a British based curriculum from nursery to 18 year olds. The school, located near Phuket Town (about a 25 minute drive) provides a school bus every day.

You may be getting the impression that Rawai isn't a big place, which is exactly what makes it attractive. Yet it has all the basic facilities of a small self-contained village. You won't have to go miles for a loaf of bread, fresh milk or a bottle of half decent wine. A number of small supermarkets sell the basics and for gourmet food, there's Food, Glorious Food 10 minutes drive near the Movement Centre in Chalong, for all those cravings.

Also conveniently in the same area, (just in case the shopping becomes too much) are the two major international hospitals - The Bangkok Phuket Hospital and the Phuket International which have cardiac units, a cosmetic surgery centre, dental centres and the usual facilities.

Although the choice of local restaurants implies that cooking is a redundant art, if you do feel the urge to cook and want to hit a big supermarket, Tesco Lotus and Big C are only a 20-minute drive away. Located close to each other within 2 shopping malls, you'll find most of your needs met. One of Thailand's best known upmarket department stores Central is housed in Central Festival Phuket, next door to Big C and offering the best in brand goods as well as a host of local shops, a first class food court , supermarket and an impressive cinema complex.

Heading north, just 10 minutes drive along the scenic coastal road with views over the Andaman Sea, is Kata Beach. In addition to a number of smaller restaurants and local music bars, you'll also find The Boathouse Wine and Grill restaurant which offers not only gourmet dining, but also one of the best wine cellars on the island.

South of Rawai are a number of offshore islands - some only 15 minutes away, like Coral Island which can easily be reached by local longtail boat, or by chartering a speedboat. (Not as expensive as its sounds with a group of friends.) Rawai beach - still home to local fishermen, probably has more boats than any other beach, so it's easy to hire one for fishing or snorkeling, or just to visit an island for the day and feed the fish.

Surprised? Well that's Rawai, one of Phuket's best-kept secrets...